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Andaman Diaries

I don't always write travelogues. Thought I would write one this time. The Andaman trip was totally worth to be written about.

Day 1:

We started our long awaited trip from the Chennai International Airport. We reached Port Blair in the afternoon and occupied our hotel room. Well, the weather was a bit unexpected as it was sunny and hot. But crave and excitement subdued our tiredness. Our first destination was Chidiyatapu Beach. It is said to be the best sunset point in South Andaman. After lunch, we started off to Chidiyatapu. It is approx. 45 minutes from Port Blair in car. We streaked on some beautiful roads along the coastal lines on the way to Chidiyatapu. We had already been warned of crocodiles lurking around the waters of the beach. So nobody dared to step in. Some crocodiles could be barely seen at distance in the waters. I sat on the coast, gazing at the Sun descending slowly down the hills. With tiny waves touching the legs, I relished what was one of the most delightful picturesque sunsets. It was such a visual treat ! We were lucky to not have too many clouds and capture some beautiful pics. After the sunset, we commuted back to the hotel. Then we had a nice little seafood dinner and went to bed.

Sunset at Chidiyatapu, Andaman
Capturing one of the beautiful sunsets I have ever seen.

Day 2:

The next destination was Baratang Island. Baratang island is where the aborigines belonging to Jarawa tribe live. It is also famous for limestone caves, mud volcanoes, mangroves, bays and eye catching forest scenery. We woke up at 3 in the morning as Baratang is around like 100 kms from Port Blair. After bath, we kicked off straight away. After a tedious, bumpy road trip for one hour, we reached the police check-post at Baratang border at 4:30. All vehicles halt here till 6 am to complete check-post formalities. In cold breeze, we had tea and breakfast - hot idli, chutney and sambhar - from a small roadside stall, and enjoyed a colorful sun rise at the distant hills. After completing formalities, we started off from the check-post at 6. Baratang is a protected and reserved area. We were insisted by the Police to not stop anywhere, or engage in photography of the Jarawas once we are past the check-post. Well, at least the roads became less bumpy now. Luckily, we got to see some Jarawas on the way. I got amused by their intimidating outlooks. Their ferocious hunting skills were evident from the weapons which they were carrying. Our vehicles were even stopped by some of them to ask for food, clothes, water and materials like pan-masala. One of the naughty little Jarawa kids even scared my dad, waving a stick kinda weapon ! Luckily, our driver was experienced and negotiated smoothly with them. The driver told us that even though they appear hostile, they don't hurt/kill tourists anymore like once they used to. The most amusing thing was that some of them could speak and understand a little Hindi as well. Sadly, these amazing class of people are facing extinction due to the scornful external intervention of so called 'modernised and civilised' people.  Find more interesting info about the Jarawas in the link below.

https://www.survivalinternational.org/tribes/jarawa

After another one hour drive, we reached a harbor. We gotta take a junkar from there to cross the bay and reach the tourist harbour at the opposite. We got into our tourist boat and rushed thru the calm waters. We could see beautiful mangroves at distance. The boat moved through the mangroves, on narrow waterlines, under the gleams of sunlight coming through the leaves of the mangroves standing on both sides. It was an eye pleasing spectacle, something I have dreamed of experiencing in my life. The boat reached a check-point and stopped there. We went for another 30 minutes trekking through the forests to reach the limestone caves. I was taken aback by the enormity and beauty of the limestone caves. The entire place was muddy, dark, and devoid of sunlight.  The guides explained how the limestones were naturally formed there. After clicking some snaps and spending some time in the fresh air of the forests, we returned. Our next destination was Corbyn's Cove Beach back in Port Blair.

Through the mangroves of Baratang, Andaman
Through the mangroves of Baratang

We reached the beach at 4 pm after a long tiring journey. The beach is not quite beautiful as other beaches in Andaman and it's a bit crowded as well. We collected some shells from the sands and sat there until the moon rise. Yea, the beach is famous for beautiful moon rise; big and sparkling on the sea. We returned to our hotel afterwards, finished the dinner and slept early as we were totally knackered. Our next destination was the much awaited Havelock Island.

Day 3:

The next morning, we boarded a private cruise to go to Havelock. Cruising through deep sea waters was a whole new experience to me. Watching the hull of the ship hitting the water fiercely, creating huge waves and splashing showers of water, was totally a hypnotising effect to me. Three hours had flown by, watching fish and relishing the sea winds; we reached Havelock. We met our new guide, occupied our hotel room, and went to Kaalapathar Beach right away. It is a beautiful beach with blue waters, white sands and lone trees around. After sight seeing and lunch, we headed to one of the most beautiful beaches in Asia, Radhanagar Beach. It is a beach devoid of water activities; a beach only for bathing. We spend hours in the waves. Being a thalassophile, I never wanted to come out of the water as I was overwhelmed by the feeling of being beaten by the waves. After satiating a beautiful sunset, we called it a day. The night was spend near the shores, where our hotel was situated. It was the X'mas eve, and the night was like in my dreams. That soothing ambience !


Radhanagar beach, Andaman
A couple enjoying the sunset at Radhanagar Beach

Day 4 and 5:

The day has finally come. Oh yea ! Scuba diving of course !! Andaman is the finest destination in India for scuba divers. Andaman is blessed with clear blue waters and abundant sea life. So I had this fantasy in my bucket list for quite a while. We had booked our slots the previous day, and chose to dive in the morning as the waters would be still and calm. Also, fish would be abundant at that time. Obviously, I was a little scared as my breath control is not really good and I am not very comfortable holding breath under water. But I was determined to try. I reached the destined beach for scuba dive at 6. After briefing some health cautions, we were sent for training under shallow water. The first couple of minutes of training were quite horrifying to be honest. Because of fear and anxiety, I couldn't even last two seconds under the cold water with the oxygen mask; I felt like I got chocked. I feared I could not proceed. The trainer asked me to relax and breath normally as you do in air. I let go of my nerves, relaxed and focused on my determination to NOT take a frigging step back from my long awaited dream. I sunk in the water again. The nerves hit me again for a couple of seconds, but I relaxed, brought my breathing rate down slowly and smoothly. Finally, I was breathing normally and spent around 20 seconds calmly under the water, before I came up. I beat my fear finally ! I completed the training successfully and was all ready to go deep for the scuba dive. It was the best experience ever. Beautiful fish with vivid, flaunting colors (I haven't even seen such colors on fish in my whole life), octopus, coral reefs, rocks, sea plants. When I looked above to the surface of the water, I could see sealight descending and gleaming. For a moment, I wished I was a fish ! I wish I could do the dive longer, but it was all over in 35 minutes. I collected my personal scuba dive pics and videos, and went back to the hotel with some rejuvenating moments. I won't ever forget this experience, I swear; I would love rewinding those moments again and again for the rest of my life. 


Scuba dive at Havelock, Andaman
Scuba dive at Havelock

After having breakfast at the hotel, we went to Elephant Beach. The beach is half an hour travel in boat from Havelock harbor. It was a refreshing drive thru the deep sea waters. When we reached there, we were instantly blow away by by the beauty of the beach. It was a small beach, but breathtakingly beautiful. I can say it is the most beautiful beach I have ever been to. Peacock green-blue tints, white sands, clear water and calm waves. It was a heavenly sight for the eyes ! We all did snorkeling there. While snorkeling, you can watch so many beautiful fish and reefs through the clear water surface of the Elephant beach waters,  like watching a TV. Kudos to the diver who helped my mom and dad experience it. After that, we went for glass bottom boat ride, which was another new experience. Finally after bathing in the waves,  we went back to our hotel by the evening. That day, certainly was the best day ever in long, long time !


The elegance of Elephant Beach

The next day, we visited the famous cellular jail, some museums and finally boarded our flight in the afternoon. It was hard and sad to say good bye. But, I had to. Thank you Andaman for many beautiful memories.

Relishing the beautiful sunset at Chidiyatapu, Andaman
Relishing a beautiful sunset at Chidiyatapu


Some inferences from the trip:

If you wanna try water activities, this is the place you would go in India. Blessed with beautiful beaches with white sand and clear blue waters. From parasailing to scuba diving, you can enjoy all the stuffs here. But if you are looking for partying with friends as you would do in Goa, this might not be your favorite location. Every beach closes at 8 pm here. Sunsets are early here at 5 pm. Activities are only up to 1 pm as the people of Andaman believe that the flaura and fauna of the sea should not be disturbed for long by humans. Hard time with internet and network. BSNL network is the only stable network here, and that too without internet in most of the places. Last but not the least: take seafood or nothing !

We toured around Central and South Andaman. North Andaman is equally beautiful, yet less explored due to the difficulty to reach there. Ha ! Maybe next time :-)

Bucket list for the next Andaman trip:

Jolly Bouy Island
Neil Island
Ross Island
Little Andaman
North Andaman

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